The art of kumihimo is ancient. Remnants of braids appear as impressions
on clay pots from 4th century Korea. Kumihimo was decorative as well
as functional, rising to an art form in Japan in the 15th century. It
was used for lacing together all the pieces of a Samurai's armor. The
braids provided flexibility and padding, and identified the rank and
affiliation of the individual. The various braid structures were not
only beautiful but choices of colour and pattern imbued them with meaning.
Braids fashioned into decorative knots embellished both everyday and
ceremonial items such as fans and bell cords, gifts and scrolls. Today,
kumihimo is best known for the decorative silk cord which fastens an
obi in place around a traditional kimono.
As
with other traditional art forms in Japan, kumihimo instruction was
ritualized; patterns were kept secret and passed from master to apprentice.
Few outsiders, foreign or Japanese, had access to this information.
The 1980's brought change with the publication of a series of books
in Japanese. A few foreigners studied kumihimo in Japan and books in
English soon appeared to intrigue the Western fiber community. Far from
the Japanese context and without formal training, braiders began to
make non-traditional braids, using the materials at hand in place of
the fine silk threads used since ancient times.
Formal
and informal study groups emerged. One way of sharing knowledge within
the groups has been the sample exchange. A "swapmeister" or
leader sets a topic for the group. Each member makes a braid that relates
to the topic and cuts it into pieces about six inches long. She/he then
writes up the braiding process, not only giving useful technical details
but also thoughts and ideas that arose while working. These documents
with a short segment of braid attached, are sent to the group leader,
who redistributes them so that each member receives a sample of all
the braids. Largely thanks to the Internet, several of these sample
exchanges have become international. (Shirley and Carol Goodwin have
edited a book about 60 such braids. See Sixty
Sensational Samples in the Publications rubric of this site.)
In
Japan, braiding is done on a marudai, a smooth wooden stand made especially
with a bevel towards the center. The silk threads are wound on heavy
wooden bobbins filled with lead. A counterweight bag with weights in
it hangs from the braid. The braiding process, moving the bobbins with
two hands rhythmically across and around the top of the stand, is elegant
and relaxing.
Using
bits of card or foam to make braids allows us to share techniques with
others, often in offices or on planes and ferries! Braiding becomes
a take-along project, losing some of its elegance in the process, but
nothing of its magic. Children (of all ages) can be initiated into the
wonder of threads and colours. Some braids are too complicated to make
one-handed on a card but there are many ways of making improvised equipment
using cardboard, an old stool or finds from the hardware store.
Braids
can be functional or frivolous. Around the world and down the ages,
braids are still made in many ways, both using equipment and simply
braiding in the hand. They don't take a lot of yarn and all sorts of
materials can be used. Just one warning - braiding is addictive. As
you braid, you'll feel the questions nudging in. "What would happen
if … ?" "How would this look in just one colour?"
Yessir, your next braid is already in waiting. Have fun!